Cover Photo: Courtesy of Chanel

The first-ever high jewellery collection dedicated to a perfume, Chanel’s Collection No. 5 reimagines iconic elements of its legendary fragrance in arrangements of priceless gemstones

When it comes to fragrances, there are several reasons why Chanel No. 5 stands out amongst the icons. From its signature flacon and diamond-cut stopper to its rich amber hue and opulent bouquet, every element speaks to No. 5’s status as a timeless classic. Composed and created by perfumer Ernest Beaux and Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel herself in 1921, this “perfume for women with the scent of a woman” was no less than revolutionary, and set the French maison down the path to becoming the luxury powerhouse it is today.

This year, in celebration of the scent’s 100th anniversary, Chanel is making history yet again as it unveils Collection No. 5, the first-ever high jewellery collection dedicated to a fragrance. 

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Comprising 123 stunning pieces, Collection No. 5 is the French maison’s largest and most ambitious yet. The brainchild of Chanel Fine Jewelry Creation Studio director Patrice Leguéreau, this collection breaks boundaries by bringing together the worlds of fragrance and high jewellery, in a way that Gabrielle Chanel would have been proud of. 

“Gabrielle Chanel approached these two universes with the same visionary values, focusing on audacity and the quest for excellence. I wanted to rediscover that creative gesture with this collection,” said Leguéreau. 

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At the heart of Collection No. 5 is the 55.55 Necklace. As its name suggests, this one-of-a-kind necklace features a 55.55-carat D Flawless emerald-cut diamond set in an 18-carat white gold bezel. Surrounded by baguette-shaped and cascading pear-shaped diamonds, this custom-cut diamond acts as the centrepiece of this breathtaking necklace, forming the silhouette of a No. 5 flacon recognisable even at a glance. This symbolic representation of Chanel No. 5 is suspended on a chain of 104 round diamonds, leading to a unique clasp in the shape of a number five—an ode to its namesake, as well as Gabrielle Chanel’s lucky number.  

Like the 55.55 Necklace, other pieces in Collection No. 5 also reflect iconic features of the legendary fragrance—The Stopper, The Bottle, The Number, The Flowers, and The Sillage—striking a delicate balance between the graphic design of the bottle and the sensuality of the fragrance.

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The Stopper

The emerald cut and rectangular shape recall Place Vendôme, one of Chanel’s enduring sources of inspiration. Exquisitely crafted from rock crystal or set with diamonds, onyx, pearls and yellow sapphires, the stopper symbolises the start of an imaginary world of the No. 5 perfume. 

The Bottle

Instantly recognisable, the geometric silhouette of the Chanel No. 5 bottle is created through exquisitely set lines of white diamonds, yellow diamonds and yellow sapphires cascading over sautoir necklaces, brooches and pendant earrings.

The Number

Driven by a powerful and sensual line, the outline of the number five becomes one of the signatures of the collection, drawing a joyful line between the pieces at the stroke of pen. A lucky charm and a lasting symbol of Gabrielle Chanel's influence on the house, the number five is playfully reimagined through compositions of rare and exceptional gemstones.

The Flowers

At the heart of the fragrance, the jasmine, the may rose and the ylang-ylang blossom over the colourful jewelry sets. Recreated in diamond and pink sapphire, the flowers retain all of their delicacy, echoing the shapes of the star, the moon and the sun.

The Sillage

The olfactive sensation of Chanel No. 5 is translated through abstract motifs that shimmer and soften over the body like perfume. Diamonds, rubies, garnets, yellow sapphires and pink and red spinels form a gradation of colours, resembling the golden jus of the No. 5 perfume.

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Chanel’s Collection No. 5 is a distillation of its namesake’s many facets, expressing daring creativity, noble materials, and an accentuated femininity intertwined with a powerful timelessness—an apt homage to the French maison’s iconic perfume, as well as the enduring legacy of Gabrielle Chanel herself.